Posts Tagged: Vancouver


31
Jan 13

Hawksworth: just a year old and already a Canadian classic

If you ask any foodie in Vancouver for their top five restaurant picks, it’s likely that Hawksworth will be on every list. One of Vancouver’s most ritzy restaurants, Hawksworth is in the deliciously decadent Rosewood Hotel Georgia. I first ate there just over a year ago, a few months after it had first opened,  that meal was inspirational. Deft touches of molecular gastronomy, everything beautifully-considered and oh! deep, rich flavours and exciting food combinations. Chef David Hawksworth and his team deservedly scooped a brace of ‘Best New‘, ‘Most Exciting‘, ‘Most Fabulous Opening‘ awards after that first year. But a year on, what next? 

Easily the most glamorous room in town

Easily the most glamorous room in town

After a glittering opening, expectations are high but all those ‘Best New...’ awards can’t be won when you’re no longer the new kid on the block. I went back recently for dinner; less showy than that first meal, I feel like Hawksworth has taken a mature direction. The new kid grew up fast. My sense is that instead of concentrating on culinary fireworks, which dazzle then fade away, what’s happening over at Hawksworth looks set to become a Canadian classic. What do I mean? Well, their angus beef tenderloin was hands-down the most delicious I’d tasted. No molecular gastronomy flashes, no glitz, just meltingly-soft with a purity of flavour that left me wishing I could eat it every single Sunday as a roast for the rest of my life.

Simple, beautiful, perfect

Simple, beautiful, perfect

There’s an authority to the food at Hawksworth, nothing feels try-hard. The desert menu seems to be the place that Chef is allowing his more mischievous side to come out – chocolate, lime and avocado appear together along with a vanilla custard ‘buddha’s hand’ with pink grapefruit and sesame.

It’s kind of refreshing, in a city that seems to pop its collective cork over every new opening, to walk past Hawksworth and see a busy room on almost any night in the week. The smart set haven’t moved on. Hawksworth was one of the most exciting places to eat in Vancouver when it opened, and for my money, it absolutely still is. So cheers, here’s to a new Canadian classic.

I ate as a guest of Hawksworth, however, my views are 100% my own.


16
Jan 13

Vancouver Dine Out Festival 2013

Grab your cutlery…

One of my big reasons for moving to Vancouver was its amazing food scene. Seriously. The dining scene in this town is phenomenal. I adore the care and passion that goes into creating menus here; chefs are excited about sustainable seafood, the farm-to-table food movement is alive and well, and the 100-mile diet (the idea that you eat only food from a 100-mile radius to cut down on food miles) began here.

Every January the city holds a Dine Out festival with over 200 restaurants onboard offering special menus across three price points. This is great for so many reasons; it galvanises a post-holidays city into getting out and spending again, many hotels partner up to offer discount rates to encourage visitors in the slow season and – best of all – it means that everyone can try somewhere and something new at an affordable price. 

 

Sustainable local snapper. 100% delicious.

Sustainable local snapper. 100% delicious at Coast.

I got to have a sneak peek of the Glowbal Group‘s Dine Out offerings at a dine-around at Coast (one of my new absolute favourite places to eat), Black and Blue and Society. I’m going to try to find room in my already-packed-with-way-too-many-restaurants schedule (I admit it, I went a little crazy booking reservations) to go back and have a full portion of the juicy, tender grilled B.C. snapper and the next time the rain and clouds get too much I am off to Black and Blue for the most comforting, carb-packed ‘Blue Ribbon’ cottage pie which, frankly, oozed butter in the most cheering way. I would post a photo of it, but I INHALED the whole pie it was so damn good. Then thought – ‘hey – wasn’t I meant to take a shot of that?’ Sorry.

I wish this didn't make me want to lick the screen :(

I wish this didn’t make me want to lick the screen :(

One problem: I may have to leave town to avoid camping out at Glowbal Grill and eating ALL the Peanut Butter bars – kind of like a millionaire’s shortbread, but with the cunning idea of replacing the heavy shortbread with a light sweet rice cake and the caramel with a whipped wedge of peanut butter. I’m sorry to report I may have scared my dining companions with my whimpers of delight. So, SO good… But there – that’s the point of the Dine Out festival – find new favourites… click on the site, read the menus, make a reservation and try something new.

I ate as a guest of the Glowbal Group – my views are 100% my own.

Dine Out Vancouver: Book something delicious NOW!

 


15
Jan 13

Dim lights, rainy city

People in the UK keep asking me whether it’s cold out here in Vancouver. ‘Is it snowy?’ they say. ‘Are you freezing?’ And really it isn’t and no, I’m not. Vancouver has its own nicely protected micro-climate thanks to the mountains and ocean. It’s kind of like Brighton, my old home, in that respect, so it’s never really too cold and never really gets too hot either. The one thing that is making winter tough is the rain.

Somewhere behind all that are snow-capped mountains.

Somewhere behind all that are snow-capped mountains.

Vancouver has more rain than, ooh, almost anywhere. On average, the city gets 1474mm of rain each year, compared to Brighton’s 801mm. That is wet. And cloudy. Oh, so very cloudy. So for days and days at a time I can’t see my beautiful view. The mountains are hidden. We’re so far north that on overcast days we never seem to get properly light either. People here recommend that I take Vitamin D. I find myself eyeing up my dog’s basket and think longingly of just curling up in the cushions and blankets and hibernating till springtime.

Perfectly pink sea and snow.

Perfectly pink sea and snow.

And then… you wake up one morning and look! It’s a beautiful blazing blue sky day, ushered in by heavenly pink early morning light. We’ve had a few days of frosty blue sky and that’ll hold me for a week, but now it’s back to the clouds again I guess it’s like the chorus of the song says, “After the rain comes sun, after the sun comes rain – again... ”

Any suggestions or hints for getting through the RAIN, RAIN, RAIN – let me know ;)

Just keep looking for the blue skies...

Just keep looking for the blue skies…

Keep exploring Canada

 

 


10
Dec 12

Adventures in Vancouver dining: Wildebeest

If there’s one restaurant that people are talking about a lot these days, it’s Wildebeest; a Gastown-borders, nose-to-tail eating joint with a bold agenda for ‘unabashed adventurous cuisine.’ I’m no fan of buzz as a rule. Buzz is for the bees and is usually as insubstantial as a soap bubble, but after a second trip to see the ‘Beest-y Boys’ in action, I think I’ll be adding my shouts of praise to the throng.

Let’s start off with the basics: I love an atmospheric room to eat in – especially one with an open kitchen where I can watch the crew perform their gastro-ballet and synchronised plating. Wildebeest has all kinds of extra details that catch the eye too — quotes from writers on the wall, vintage light fixtures and a rather lovely solid wood door that’s been repurposed as a bottle rack by the bar.

Downstairs in the wine bar…

I was torn the first time I ate here; half the dishes I loved — just adored to the point of wondering if I could get away with some sneaky plate-licking — but a few left me cold. A porridge-y side served with pork bewildered me; each on their own were fine, but together? And then there was a take on chicharon which seriously misfired; I was left with gummy fried pork adhered to my mouth. Yes. My life is *that* glamorous. But the custard-y, foamy Chawanmushi, with Dungeness Crab I could have happily eaten in a bucket, it was incredible and the shortribs, hands down the best I’ve ever tasted.

Seriously hard for me not to just… lick the screen. Best. Shortribs. EVER.
Credit – Peter Bagi

I went back at the weekend and I’m so glad I did. The incredibly-adhesive chicharon is gone. As is the pork-y porridge. This can only be a good thing. In their place, wonderful stuff… I tried an octopus dish with light, peppery olive oil hollandaise (is this a ‘thing’ in this town? First at Fable, now here?) and my new favourite thing, a Fiore Farm chicken duo, with a positively whipped-it-was-so-creamy polenta and the most delicious flavour-dense jus. Adored it.

This is the first time I’ve seen ‘dining’ cocktails too. I tried a Fitty Fitty, a blend of Nasturtium-infused gin, vermouth and salt that made me wince when I tried it at the bar – but with food – it became the perfect foil. Loved that.

Spread on that toast – oh! Heaven.
Credit – Peter Bagi

It’s a menu made for excitingly high-stakes dining. No scaredy-cat, fussy eaters here – the bone marrow is gelatinously meaty and just made to luge sherry with, chicken hearts and duck liver dance alongside sweetbreads and schnitzel. It’s the kind of dinner that you want to take a date to —  just to see how down and daring they get with the food. Bold eaters are terribly attractive, everyone knows that, right?  So, buzz aside, the hype, for once, is real. I will be back. And you should absolutely go there too.

I ate here as a guest of Tourism Vancouver/Wildebeest. My views are 100% my own.

Find out more at Tourism Vancouver 


7
Dec 12

Three month-i-versary

So, it’s been three months since I arrived in Vancouver and so far, I’ve not regretted it for a second. Sure, there have been times when it’s been tough being so far from everyone and everything that I love, but thank goodness for Skype and social media! I get to feel like I’m still sharing in my friends’ lives and although talking on Twitter or Facebook is no substitute for sitting down with my mates, well, it’s better than waiting for weeks for an airmail letter.

How can you not just stare and stare?

How can you not just stare and stare?

Vancouver has dazzled me with its beauty. If I was smitten before, it’s a full-blown love affair now. Staring at the clouds and mountains has become my new favourite thing to do. Right next to staring at the skyline at night.

Beautiful at night, with the dazzling city and lights of Grouse Mountain twinkling

I’ve got used to the torrential rain. I’ve started to dress for downpours and have become utterly unselfconscious about stomping around in my rubber boots. I’ve taken to feasting on Kale, the leafy green brassica that’s in every Vancouverite’s shopping basket. Most importantly, I’ve started to make friends.

I made kale chips. This makes me a local, right?

Next week I move to my new apartment. Bye bye Kitsilano, hello West End. I’m so looking forward to living there and exploring another part of this gorgeous city. Small problem: it’s unfurnished and I don’t have any furniture, so, for a while it’ll be awfully minimal! But that’s just so much less to clean, right!? So, here’s to new beginnings…

Stanley Park. Turns out I moved to the end of the rainbow…

Feel inspired: Keep Exploring Canada

 


5
Dec 12

My first Vancouver hotel love revisited. I’m still crushing on The Opus

Seeing your first love again after a couple of years… well, that can be kind of complicated. You have all those expectations. Will your heart still flutter? Will they still excite you like they did? Make you feel special? Or will it be a terrible let down and leave you sad and depressed for days?

Oh, I should explain. I’m not talking about an ex-boyfriend. I’m talking about the very first hotel I stayed in when I came to Vancouver for the very first time two years ago, The Opus. I’d arrived by train from Toronto, a life-changing 4466KM, four day, three night journey that had me swooning over the sheer size of Canada and its amazing landscape. I got to the ViaRail station in the morning in a state of profound nature-worship and got a cab to Yaletown, where I checked into this gloriously sexy city hotel. At the time I wrote that it was, “…Absolutely everything a boutique hotel should be; sexy, smart, stylish and giddily decadent.” Would it still have the power to charm me? Yes, yes. YES!

Seriously snuggle-worthy

I was checking out one of the newly-renovated suites and oh, I’m happy to say that it didn’t disappoint. My beloved moodily-lit disco-lift – all funky music and slow-changing lights - still put a smile on my face, I sashayed down the softly-soft carpet to my room and wondered whether I’d still get that giddy feeling once I got inside.

It’s enough to give a girl ideas…

I guess sometimes absence makes the heart grow fonder, because, if anything, the new designed rooms are saucier than ever. Oh, there’s still that knowingly party-friendly minibar, packed to the brim with re-tox and de-tox options and the gleaming Nespresso machine, but add to that an in-room iPad, a roaring fire at the touch of a button, sultry art work, all shiny lips and soft, squishy furniture that just begged for you to curl up and snuggle. The suites are pleasingly spacious; the lounge area perfect for a spot of room service as I enjoyed that hypnotic fireplace. The bedroom glamorous enough to ignite a fire of its own for any lucky couple who get to stay there. And if you’re a bit of an exhibitionist, well, the light-flooded windows of the bathroom face out over an office. Me, I kept the blinds low and enjoyed the Jacuzzi tub. But you, well… I bet you’d keep them open a bit, you saucy thing.

Sunny side up

In the morning, my four poster bed was so comfy I briefly considered chaining myself to it, to avoid leaving, but breakfast at La Pentola was calling, so reluctantly, I left its embrace and drifted downstairs. I’d eaten at the restaurant a few weeks beforehand, rustic Italian with a BC twist. There were a couple of dishes that I’d especially loved; a smoked veal tongue that was carpaccio-thin and a kale and ricotta-stuffed pasta that I could have happily eaten for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Eggs were on the menu this morning though and a tasty sausage perfectly paired with an apple jam. I left with a dance in my step and a head full of new and wonderful memories. I’m still crushing hard on The Opus. The flame still burns for my first Vancouver hotel-love. Can we make this a regular anniversary date? I hope so…

I stayed as a guest of the Opus, however, my views are 100% my own.


3
Dec 12

Clouds in my coffee: brunch at Fable

Oof. Homesickness has hit. Just like Proust got sucked into a world of nostalgia and memory from one bite of a madeleine, so I found myself in tears after a sip of latte at Fable on West 4th. It was perfect; silky steamed, frothy milk and rich, smooth coffee – just exactly the way I love it – and how the fine folk at Small Batch make it in Brighton.

Silly, but it tasted of home and made me cry…

I thought of all my friends that I missed sitting and having coffee with and oh, it hurt. Silly really, to cry over coffee but isn’t it always food that makes you feel connected to memories and special occasions? I’m sitting back at home now, indulging in a small sob-fest. It’s three months on Thursday since I arrived in Vancouver and this is the first time I’ve felt truly homesick. How typical that it was because of a coffee!

Only another six days until I can brunch-out and eat this again…

Fortunately apart from weeping over the latte, I was also raving over the brunch menu at Fable. I went with my friend from Toronto, Alyssa, who confessed to being not much of a brunch person – but looks like she may have changed her mind after the dazzling meal that we shared. We kicked off with brunch cocktails; a pink grapefruit Cava mimosa for me (loved the tartness of this) and a tongue-tingly spicy Victoria Gin Caesar for Alyssa. We split the special, a smoked salmon benedict, which came with a satisfying wedge of almost-candied smoked salmon, completely different from the usual waxy sliver of salmon that arrives with a benny. Paired with a peppery olive oil hollandaise and dressed salad leaves, this had us both gurgling with glee.

An extra squirt of Parmesan foam? Yes please, chef!

The must-have is definitely scrambled eggs; served in a glass jar, layered with buttery spinach, salty bacon and topped with a parmesan foam; they arrived with hefts of fluffy brioche and a brilliantly-crunchy rosti. After one bite, thoughts of how far I was from home faded and instead I started to feel glad that I was within walking distance of these eggs instead.

Perfect scrambled eggs.

I tried the french toast – I’m not a fan as a rule, maybe it’s the cinnamon, maybe it’s the overly-sweetness of it? – but this might change my mind. I liked the chewy, carmelised, buttery edges and the smooth dollop of Mascarpone, along with the freshness of the blueberries served on the side, cut through the usual teeth-rattling sugaryness. Alyssa loved it.

Let’s just call it a possible game-changer.

We sat at the bar – recommended for fans of kitchen theatre and the sheer joy of watching a good crew work together – but next time, I plan to bring a crew of my own, maybe for the monthly boozy brunch, and sit in the back. It’s time I started to create new traditions in Vancouver, and I think brunch at Fable is just the thing to make me feel at home.

We were hosted by Fable, but my views are 100% my own. In fact I’ve been back for that boozy brunch a few times since – it’s still great!


22
Nov 12

Chowder Chowdown at the Vancouver Aquarium

The only accessory any smart Vancouverite needed tonight was a wooden spoon and voting slip from the Ocean Wise sustainable seafood Chowder Chowdown event at the Aquarium.

Forget designer bags or statement shoes: this spoon is all you need…

Twelve chefs, twelve delicious chowders, all competing for the honour of being voted the People’s Choice at the end of the night. I had such a great time; I hopped on the free old-fashioned trolley bus service that was laid on for the evening and rattled through town towards the Aquarium in Stanley Park. Once there, I was given my wooden spoon and slip and so galloped inside to start tasting.

What goes with chowder? Beer, of course! From the Granville Island Brewing Co.

What crowds! This was a sold-out event. I love that people turned out on a drizzly November evening to find out more about sustainable seafood and celebrate the great food culture of Vancouver. One of the first meals I ever ate in Vancouver, two years ago, was at C restaurant which was where I first read about the Ocean Wise initiative, the brainchild of the Vancouver Aquarium, dedicated to teaching consumers about how to make smart choices when it comes to sustainable seafood.

Better move fast…

In a nutshell this is the idea: overfishing is a huge threat to our oceans. The world’s marine life is quickly being depleted. A recent scientific study predicted a world-wide fisheries collapse by 2048. The only solution is to turn back from the brink, and to begin consuming seafood in a sustainable manner.

Definitely the winners of the best presentation award!

So, when you visit Vancouver, make sure you choose Ocean Wise seafood. It’s guilt-free eating because it fits these criteria:

  1. Abundant and resilient to fishing pressures
  2. Well managed with a comprehensive management plan based on current research
  3. Harvested in a method that ensures limited bycatch on non-target and endangered species
  4. Harvested in ways that limit damage to marine or aquatic habitats and negative interactions with other species.

100% sustainable AND delicious

All the restaurants that took part tonight work within those guidelines. I’ll be doing my best to support them — and so should you. It was a tough choice; I adored the spicy tomato-y flavour of Chef Alex Tung from Cotto Enoteca Pizzeria’s chowder and the amazing citrus foam on Chef Dana Hauser’s chowder from Herons -The Fairmont Waterfront, was superb. But the winner of the People’s Choice was new opening Chef Chris Whittaker for Forage at the Listel Hotel. I will definitely be stopping by to see what else they do… as well as feast on sustainable seafood!

The winners! Forage – whizzing about so fast I couldn’t catch’ em.

Inspired? You should be! Keep Exploring Canada…

 


21
Nov 12

Licensed to thrill at Vancouver’s Shangri-La hotel

It’s Vancouver’s tallest building and I’ve seen it shimmering at me for months…

I’ve had my eye on the Shangri-La hotel  ever since I moved to Vancouver. Towering above the other buildings in the city, it’s been a glittering landmark and one that I’ve been increasingly eager to check out. Turns out waiting two months to visit was two months too long. Where has the Chi spa been all my life? Why aren’t I there right now? If I ask nicely, do you suppose they will let me move in? 

Deliciously decadent private spa treatment room at CHI

Ahem.

Checking in was a breeze, I’d arrived early to visit Chi (OH MY GOD, THE SPA!) and the concierge had spotted me loitering in the lobby with my case. He immediately took it from me to save me the effort of wheeling it to the lift and promised to have it sent to my room. Case-less I zipped on up to the fifth floor… The lift doors open and you’re faced with a cascading wall of water over shimmering rock. A sense of calm is established immediately. I’d booked for the Element Vitality massage, a treatment which combined a variety of massage styles, Swedish, shiatsu and reflexology – blending the best of East and West – as the rest of the hotel does. I visit a lot of spas and I can say, hand on heart, that I don’t think I have ever seen treatment rooms like these before. Each room is its own fully-equipped spa, complete with huge soaker tub, steam room, fireplace, changing area, showers and relaxation area. Very impressive. I wish I could pretend that I am cooler than I am, but as I am not, I’ll confess that I WHOOPED when I saw it.

The first part of the treatment was a ten-minute steam. I love any massage that starts this way; your muscles warm up and the therapy is is much more beneficial. I steamed in my private cabin & then took a warm shower, wrapped myself in a robe and padded out to my therapist who’d prepared a herbal tea for me to enjoy while I chose which ‘element’ scented oil I preferred for my massage. I chose ‘water’ which she told me meant fluidity, travel and independence – exactly right for me. The combination of the different styles was superb, I felt positively boneless when I reluctantly left the couch an hour later. Just a great treatment. In fact, I felt so relaxed I couldn’t face dressing, so packed up my boots and all in spa gift bags, and wafted up to my room on the eleventh floor with a Mona Lisa-like smile on my face.

There! Look through the window – can you see? City, mountains and sea…

I had an impression of smooth crisp fine linens, a decadent bathroom with a gloriously waterfall-like shower and soaker tub, with a whole shelf of doo-dads and what-nots in the bathroom – combs and toothbrushes and all, but then I saw the bed and fell soundly asleep. Always the sign of a stellar massage. The need for unconsciousness immediately afterwards.

I woke to all that I moved to Vancouver for; that wonderful view of city, mountains & water. I sat on the edge of the huge bed and hugged myself with delight. I’d woken feeling refreshed and ready for action – and that meant dinner at MARKET by Jean Georges  and afterwards a party to celebrate the release of the new Bond movie, Skyfall in the Xi Shi Lounge.

And so – to MARKET, honestly? Not the most exciting of rooms, maybe it’s the lighting? Dim, but not intimate, something felt off, and truthfully, the menu didn’t have me leaping with anticipation either. Its focus is on “reinventing classic dishes by infusing eclecticism”. Hmm, a burger with black truffle and Brie, soy-glazed short ribs with apple-Jalepeno puree and a lot of mushrooms seem to feature (not great for me with my raging mushroom allergy).  I guess if I hadn’t been going to a slinky-dress party afterwards, I’d have dug in, embraced a loose waistband and had the beef tenderloin. But a slinky dress night it was, so I hit up a trio from the Raw Bar and planned to sample my date’s rack of lamb.

So, what do you think? Me? Not loving the room. The food is divine though.

How lovely when your expectations are shattered; the food was perfect. Just wonderful. The tuna tartare with avocado, spicy radish and ginger dressing was one of the best things I’ve eaten. The flavours sung. So incredibly fresh and that perfect balance between spice and heat. The rice cracker-encrusted tuna was marvelous too and the oysters so good I’m afraid I had seconds. The lamb? Heaven. Perfectly pink and given an edge with a chili-crumb crust. I may have had more than my fair share. But I’m not changing my mind about the room, until I try lunch there in daylight, and see whether that makes a difference.

On to the party – I’d heard nothing but great things about bartender Jay Jones, who shakes it up at the Xi Shi Lounge – which would be because he’s rather superb at what he does. My new off-list love is a Last Word, a cheeky Prohibition-era blend of gin, green chartreuse, maraschino and fresh pressed lime juice. Jay whipped up one of the best I’ve had and, bless him, didn’t insist I stick to the evening’s Bond-a-licious creations, although, yes – I had to try the Vesper, of course… The night span past in a whirl of Bond themes, casino fun, glammed-up willowy women and towering Canadians in sharp suits. Hurrah!

Morning arrived with a sore head and (thank goodness) an in-room breakfast, complete with old-school warming cupboard so my much-needed eggs and bacon didn’t get cold. As I write this at home, I can see the Shangri-La through the rain clouds. If I squint I can just about see where the spa might be… how I wish I were there right now.

I stayed as a guest of the Shangri La, but my views are 100% my own. And I still wish I could go and live in that spa.


14
Nov 12

Going native: rubber rain boots

I realised a couple of weeks ago that what worked in Brighton absolutely did not work here in Vancouver. I’m talking about my boots. My lovely leather boots. Which I have happily stomped around in all weathers in England and been bone-dry — have failed at the first downpour here in the temperate rainforest climate of Vancouver. Wet socks. Cold feet. Urgh.

I asked on Twitter for Vancouver boot shots – so thanks to @WanderlustMegan for these scarlet wonders!

And Freddie the dog needs to be taken on a nice long walk at least once a day so I looked at what the locals were doing and realised I needed to put my reservations aside and get me a pair of rubber boots. Yup – the rubber boot is everywhere on the streets of Vancouver. From polka-dot cheapies from Walmart to designer block colour boots. They’re worn with jeans or dresses and it doesn’t seem to matter whether you’re on the beach or striding downtown. Rubber boots are where it’s at for the Vancouverites.

 

And rocking the classic Hunter – thanks to @cwistal

Me, I haven’t worn a pair of wellies since I was a kid, but I cracked two weeks ago when a particularly vicious three-day monsoon-like bout of weather made me regretfully retire my  beloved Brighton boots and head to West 4th street in Kitsilano to seek out anything that would keep me dry. The Vancouverites seem to love a Hunter boot – but I don’t see myself as either a Kate Moss or Middleton-type so I was looking for something else instead. And I found it.

Witness the mighty fitness of these rubber biker boots!

Biker ankle boots which are made from rubber. I knew I had something right when I was stopped twice in one day by breathless women demanding to know where I got them from. This has never happened to me before. Maybe I just needed to wear rubber boots…

 

 

 


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