restaurants

hotels / restaurants / Vancouver — No Comments
13
Feb 13

Vancouver’s shore thing: the Pinnacle Hotel at the Pier

“You know, we’re spoiled really.” said my dinner date as he scooped up a handful of seafood nachos, loaded with tasty seared tuna and spicy shrimp, as he waved at the view. Vancouver was lit up before us. All glittering high rises and moonlight over the water. “Anywhere else this would be THE best restaurant in town. But here it is, tucked away on the North Shore.”

He was right. I’m slowly making my way around Vancouver and discovering its many different neighbourhoods. I’d imagined the North Shore to be The ‘Burbs. Not much happening there. Kind of quiet. Guess what? Think again.

A break in the rain and a golden view of Vancouver

A break in the rain and a golden view of Vancouver

I got there on the ferry bus from the terminal downtown. It’s a pleasant 12-minute trip across the water and I’m guessing if it wasn’t bucketing with rain, it’s a lovely view. The rain held off for a few minutes when I hopped off the ferry and looking at the city from the other side made me see with fresh eyes how gorgeous it is. On the way to the hotel I stopped into the Lonsdale Quay market place which really reminded me of the indoor markets in Paris, something about the metal shutters and artistically-stacked fruit and veg, I guess. After wandering around and making a mental note to come back with shopping bags another day, I checked into the Pinnacle Hotel at the Pier.

My room was big and I loved the huge tub with its glass-wall shower which faced onto the bedroom. Very steamy! Floor to ceiling windows gave a show-stopping view of the city. I sat on the bed and tried to make out my new apartment building, it’s nice to finally start to recognise the skyline. All settled in, I went to explore, and discovered one of the largest hotel pools I think I have ever seen, on the third floor – flooded with natural light and a big gym too.

Hard not to just stare... and stare...

Hard not to just stare… and stare…

We had dinner at Pier 7 , which has Executive Chef Dino Renaerts, ex-chef of Diva at the Met (one of Vancouver’s best) at the helm. I tried the Dine Out menu, three courses for just $28, which was spectacular value for money, I loved the braised beef short ribs and hope they weren’t just a Dine Out special… People always talk about hidden gems, which are often in full view, but after raving about the food to other Vancouverites who’d never heard of Pier 7, perhaps this really is one after all. Maybe these North Shore-ers are on to something…

New day dawning over the city

New day dawning over the city

After being led deliciously astray by sommelier Alain – a guy who knows far too much about wine and wants you to try every drop – I reeled my way back to the hotel and kept the curtains open as I curled up in bed so that I could see that view. In the early morning at dawn it just got better.

The Pinnacle has a huge patio which they have open in the warmer months and I’m already making plans to head back on that ferry and get a heaped plate of those amazing seafood nachos to enjoy with a few cocktails and watch my new city light up as the sun sets.

I stayed and ate as a guest of The Pinnacle Pier and Pier 7. My views are 100% my own and I am definitely going back once it stops raining!

Find out more about Vancouver’s North Shore

restaurants / Vancouver — No Comments
8
Feb 13

Food and drink adventures in Yaletown Part 2: Minami

Launching a successful sushi restaurant in a city with more sashimi and speciality rolls than you can shake a chopstick at takes something special. Down in Vancouver’s Yaletown, Minami has hit on a neat solution to keeping things fresh with ‘aburi sushi’ – a method of blowtorch-ing the topping. I went to see what it was all about.

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Sit at the counter and watch the amazing action at Minami

As an Ocean Wise sustainable seafood restaurant, I was already eyeing up Minami favourably, but as I walked in on that cold Vancouver night, I was greeted with a chorus of “Irrashai Mase!” which means ‘welcome’ and I soon felt warmed up -  and no -  it wasn’t just from the kick-ass Katana cocktail.

It’s mesmerising to watch the chefs prepping at the sushi counter. I sat, goggle-eyed with admiration as they created plate after plate of toasty-topped nigiri, which thanks to a smart little gizmo which you pack with rice and tap, was all perfectly rectangular. While I watched the chefs work their magic, I started off with a single oyster, topped with a lemon sake foam. I usually like my Vancouver Island oysters naked (apart from the smallest squirt of lemon), but the foam was a deft touch – giving a small but intense flavour burst.

As chef prepped my flame-finished sushi, I tucked into sustainable salmon sashimi.

As chef prepped my flame-finished sushi, I tucked into sustainable salmon sashimi.

I’ll confess I had my doubts about the aburi: flame-finished sushi, really? But it turns out I had nothing to fear; it was gorgeous, the topping had a faint charcoal flavour which worked beautifully with the rice and fish.

Aburi sushi - flame-finished and mouth-wateringly delish.

Aburi sushi – flame-finished and mouth-wateringly delish.

I’d been recommended to try the sea urchin; sandy-orange and curled on top of a wedge of rice, it’s maybe not the prettiest sushi on the block and I’d never ordered it in a restaurant before. “When it comes to some seafoods you have to fight preconceptions – forget the looks; if it tastes good, eat it!” advised the manager Patrick as I hesitantly raised my chopsticks. I gingerly bit in and savoured its flavour; creamy and tasting of the ocean.  This was fresh from Vancouver Island too, where the icy clean waters make for excellent sea food. I wound up not eating the rice, so delicious was its pure clean flavour.

Sea urchin - feel the fear and eat it anyway!

Sea urchin – feel the fear and eat it anyway!

It’s one of the things that I’m loving most about my time in Canada – so far, every week I’ve managed to try something new to eat or drink that I’ve never tried before. I went for a look around Minami’s funky interior and peeked out to the patio. It was, of course, raining (it basically rains from October till April in Vancouver, I’ve been told!) but I imagined sitting in the summer sun, tossing back more of those delicious oysters and a whole plate of those tasty sea urchins. I can’t wait.

I ate as a guest of Minami but my views are 100% my own.

restaurants / Vancouver — No Comments
31
Jan 13

Hawksworth: just a year old and already a Canadian classic

If you ask any foodie in Vancouver for their top five restaurant picks, it’s likely that Hawksworth will be on every list. One of Vancouver’s most ritzy restaurants, Hawksworth is in the deliciously decadent Rosewood Hotel Georgia. I first ate there just over a year ago, a few months after it had first opened,  that meal was inspirational. Deft touches of molecular gastronomy, everything beautifully-considered and oh! deep, rich flavours and exciting food combinations. Chef David Hawksworth and his team deservedly scooped a brace of ‘Best New‘, ‘Most Exciting‘, ‘Most Fabulous Opening‘ awards after that first year. But a year on, what next? 

Easily the most glamorous room in town

Easily the most glamorous room in town

After a glittering opening, expectations are high but all those ‘Best New...’ awards can’t be won when you’re no longer the new kid on the block. I went back recently for dinner; less showy than that first meal, I feel like Hawksworth has taken a mature direction. The new kid grew up fast. My sense is that instead of concentrating on culinary fireworks, which dazzle then fade away, what’s happening over at Hawksworth looks set to become a Canadian classic. What do I mean? Well, their angus beef tenderloin was hands-down the most delicious I’d tasted. No molecular gastronomy flashes, no glitz, just meltingly-soft with a purity of flavour that left me wishing I could eat it every single Sunday as a roast for the rest of my life.

Simple, beautiful, perfect

Simple, beautiful, perfect

There’s an authority to the food at Hawksworth, nothing feels try-hard. The desert menu seems to be the place that Chef is allowing his more mischievous side to come out – chocolate, lime and avocado appear together along with a vanilla custard ‘buddha’s hand’ with pink grapefruit and sesame.

It’s kind of refreshing, in a city that seems to pop its collective cork over every new opening, to walk past Hawksworth and see a busy room on almost any night in the week. The smart set haven’t moved on. Hawksworth was one of the most exciting places to eat in Vancouver when it opened, and for my money, it absolutely still is. So cheers, here’s to a new Canadian classic.

I ate as a guest of Hawksworth, however, my views are 100% my own.

restaurants / Things to do / Vancouver — 1 Comment
16
Jan 13

Vancouver Dine Out Festival 2013

Grab your cutlery…

One of my big reasons for moving to Vancouver was its amazing food scene. Seriously. The dining scene in this town is phenomenal. I adore the care and passion that goes into creating menus here; chefs are excited about sustainable seafood, the farm-to-table food movement is alive and well, and the 100-mile diet (the idea that you eat only food from a 100-mile radius to cut down on food miles) began here.

Every January the city holds a Dine Out festival with over 200 restaurants onboard offering special menus across three price points. This is great for so many reasons; it galvanises a post-holidays city into getting out and spending again, many hotels partner up to offer discount rates to encourage visitors in the slow season and – best of all – it means that everyone can try somewhere and something new at an affordable price. 

 

Sustainable local snapper. 100% delicious.

Sustainable local snapper. 100% delicious at Coast.

I got to have a sneak peek of the Glowbal Group‘s Dine Out offerings at a dine-around at Coast (one of my new absolute favourite places to eat), Black and Blue and Society. I’m going to try to find room in my already-packed-with-way-too-many-restaurants schedule (I admit it, I went a little crazy booking reservations) to go back and have a full portion of the juicy, tender grilled B.C. snapper and the next time the rain and clouds get too much I am off to Black and Blue for the most comforting, carb-packed ‘Blue Ribbon’ cottage pie which, frankly, oozed butter in the most cheering way. I would post a photo of it, but I INHALED the whole pie it was so damn good. Then thought – ‘hey – wasn’t I meant to take a shot of that?’ Sorry.

I wish this didn't make me want to lick the screen :(

I wish this didn’t make me want to lick the screen :(

One problem: I may have to leave town to avoid camping out at Glowbal Grill and eating ALL the Peanut Butter bars – kind of like a millionaire’s shortbread, but with the cunning idea of replacing the heavy shortbread with a light sweet rice cake and the caramel with a whipped wedge of peanut butter. I’m sorry to report I may have scared my dining companions with my whimpers of delight. So, SO good… But there – that’s the point of the Dine Out festival – find new favourites… click on the site, read the menus, make a reservation and try something new.

I ate as a guest of the Glowbal Group – my views are 100% my own.

Dine Out Vancouver: Book something delicious NOW!

 

restaurants / Whistler — No Comments
3
Jan 13

Whistler dining from A(raxi) to B(earfoot Bistro)

They know how to have a good time, those Whistler folk. If they’re not ski-ing, boarding, or snow shoeing across the stunning slopes, they’re throwing a party. On my last trip the film festival was in full swing and the town buzzing with excitement over celebrity visitors, Channing Tatum and Rashida Jones. Daniel Radcliffe was in town, staying at the gorgeous Fairmont Hotel – so was I! And I still missed seeing him.

Feel close to nature in gorgeous Whistler

Clearly my celeb-spotting skills are a little rusty, but even I was able to spot that Whistler has some of BC’s best restaurants. I’ve wanted to eat at Araxi and the Bearfoot Bistro for a few years and on this trip, I finally got round to it. I’m starting to see that there’s perhaps something of a West Coast connection  - inspired after a long discussion with my East Coast friend, Alyssa: that if you live in such extreme beauty, you feel connected to nature in a way that you probably don’t if you live in a huge urban sprawl. Seeing the mountains every day and living seasonally makes you appreciate the world of nature and want to protect it. That’s the theory anyway and as Whistler has summer and winter food and wine festival events I reckon this belief in keeping food as fresh, seasonal and local as possible shines through with menus that feel perfectly in harmony with nature.

Beautifully briny oysters and delicate pearly-pops of flavour

Araxi is probably one of the most technically-proficient and artfully flavourful restaurants I have ever had the pleasure of visiting. Everything from the ice-wine cocktail I began my meal with to the hidden treasures within the oh-so-innocent looking chocolate dessert (which spilled over with cream and fruit after the first spoonful) delighted me. Briny oysters came topped with pearls of cucumber, flawlessly seared tuna also came dressed in pearls – this time of soy – which delivered a perfect umami pop of flavour with each bite.

Almost (but not quite) too beautiful to eat

One of my new favourite things is beet salad and the one here came topped with a candy-striped variety that made me beam with pleasure. A wonderful wine list, superb service and pleasingly-intimate room made this probably one of the best ‘date’ restaurants you could ever visit.

Come on in, the vodka’s just right!

In contrast, the Bearfoot Bistro also has an exciting menu, but with a double-portion of fun on the side. Its owner, Andre Saint-Jacques, has created an atmosphere of pure decadent devilry here, from the champagne room in the cellar, where you can learn to saber a bottle of Moet according to Napoleonic tradition, (exciting fun and you get to keep the top that you chop off!) to the Belvedere ice room where you wrap up in polar parkas and knock back frozen vodka shots. The theatrics don’t stop with the drinks, where else would you get ice cream made at your table with billowing dry ice? My stand-out dish here was a rich risotto topped with perfect scallops. Oh – and more beets! This time served multi-coloured and cubed in a shot glass of creamy whipped goat’s cheese. I tried my first sparkling ice cider here and fell in love on the spot.

Why open champagne by popping the cork when you can simple CHOP ITS HEAD OFF!

I was trying to think afterwards, which did I prefer and I honestly couldn’t decide. Both were perfect for completely different reasons. I’d want a party with friends and endless bottles over wonderful seafood at Bearfoot, and I’d pick Araxi as my go-to place for any occasion that demanded something just a little bit special. Lucky Whistler people having those choices right on their doorstep.

I travelled as a guest of Tourism Whistler – however, my views are 100% my own.

Find out more: Visit Whistler and Keep Exploring Canada

restaurants / Vancouver — No Comments
10
Dec 12

Adventures in Vancouver dining: Wildebeest

If there’s one restaurant that people are talking about a lot these days, it’s Wildebeest; a Gastown-borders, nose-to-tail eating joint with a bold agenda for ‘unabashed adventurous cuisine.’ I’m no fan of buzz as a rule. Buzz is for the bees and is usually as insubstantial as a soap bubble, but after a second trip to see the ‘Beest-y Boys’ in action, I think I’ll be adding my shouts of praise to the throng.

Let’s start off with the basics: I love an atmospheric room to eat in – especially one with an open kitchen where I can watch the crew perform their gastro-ballet and synchronised plating. Wildebeest has all kinds of extra details that catch the eye too — quotes from writers on the wall, vintage light fixtures and a rather lovely solid wood door that’s been repurposed as a bottle rack by the bar.

Downstairs in the wine bar…

I was torn the first time I ate here; half the dishes I loved — just adored to the point of wondering if I could get away with some sneaky plate-licking — but a few left me cold. A porridge-y side served with pork bewildered me; each on their own were fine, but together? And then there was a take on chicharon which seriously misfired; I was left with gummy fried pork adhered to my mouth. Yes. My life is *that* glamorous. But the custard-y, foamy Chawanmushi, with Dungeness Crab I could have happily eaten in a bucket, it was incredible and the shortribs, hands down the best I’ve ever tasted.

Seriously hard for me not to just… lick the screen. Best. Shortribs. EVER.
Credit – Peter Bagi

I went back at the weekend and I’m so glad I did. The incredibly-adhesive chicharon is gone. As is the pork-y porridge. This can only be a good thing. In their place, wonderful stuff… I tried an octopus dish with light, peppery olive oil hollandaise (is this a ‘thing’ in this town? First at Fable, now here?) and my new favourite thing, a Fiore Farm chicken duo, with a positively whipped-it-was-so-creamy polenta and the most delicious flavour-dense jus. Adored it.

This is the first time I’ve seen ‘dining’ cocktails too. I tried a Fitty Fitty, a blend of Nasturtium-infused gin, vermouth and salt that made me wince when I tried it at the bar – but with food – it became the perfect foil. Loved that.

Spread on that toast – oh! Heaven.
Credit – Peter Bagi

It’s a menu made for excitingly high-stakes dining. No scaredy-cat, fussy eaters here – the bone marrow is gelatinously meaty and just made to luge sherry with, chicken hearts and duck liver dance alongside sweetbreads and schnitzel. It’s the kind of dinner that you want to take a date to —  just to see how down and daring they get with the food. Bold eaters are terribly attractive, everyone knows that, right?  So, buzz aside, the hype, for once, is real. I will be back. And you should absolutely go there too.

I ate here as a guest of Tourism Vancouver/Wildebeest. My views are 100% my own.

Find out more at Tourism Vancouver 

restaurants / Transport — No Comments
3
Dec 12

Clouds in my coffee: brunch at Fable

Oof. Homesickness has hit. Just like Proust got sucked into a world of nostalgia and memory from one bite of a madeleine, so I found myself in tears after a sip of latte at Fable on West 4th. It was perfect; silky steamed, frothy milk and rich, smooth coffee – just exactly the way I love it – and how the fine folk at Small Batch make it in Brighton.

Silly, but it tasted of home and made me cry…

I thought of all my friends that I missed sitting and having coffee with and oh, it hurt. Silly really, to cry over coffee but isn’t it always food that makes you feel connected to memories and special occasions? I’m sitting back at home now, indulging in a small sob-fest. It’s three months on Thursday since I arrived in Vancouver and this is the first time I’ve felt truly homesick. How typical that it was because of a coffee!

Only another six days until I can brunch-out and eat this again…

Fortunately apart from weeping over the latte, I was also raving over the brunch menu at Fable. I went with my friend from Toronto, Alyssa, who confessed to being not much of a brunch person – but looks like she may have changed her mind after the dazzling meal that we shared. We kicked off with brunch cocktails; a pink grapefruit Cava mimosa for me (loved the tartness of this) and a tongue-tingly spicy Victoria Gin Caesar for Alyssa. We split the special, a smoked salmon benedict, which came with a satisfying wedge of almost-candied smoked salmon, completely different from the usual waxy sliver of salmon that arrives with a benny. Paired with a peppery olive oil hollandaise and dressed salad leaves, this had us both gurgling with glee.

An extra squirt of Parmesan foam? Yes please, chef!

The must-have is definitely scrambled eggs; served in a glass jar, layered with buttery spinach, salty bacon and topped with a parmesan foam; they arrived with hefts of fluffy brioche and a brilliantly-crunchy rosti. After one bite, thoughts of how far I was from home faded and instead I started to feel glad that I was within walking distance of these eggs instead.

Perfect scrambled eggs.

I tried the french toast – I’m not a fan as a rule, maybe it’s the cinnamon, maybe it’s the overly-sweetness of it? – but this might change my mind. I liked the chewy, carmelised, buttery edges and the smooth dollop of Mascarpone, along with the freshness of the blueberries served on the side, cut through the usual teeth-rattling sugaryness. Alyssa loved it.

Let’s just call it a possible game-changer.

We sat at the bar – recommended for fans of kitchen theatre and the sheer joy of watching a good crew work together – but next time, I plan to bring a crew of my own, maybe for the monthly boozy brunch, and sit in the back. It’s time I started to create new traditions in Vancouver, and I think brunch at Fable is just the thing to make me feel at home.

We were hosted by Fable, but my views are 100% my own. In fact I’ve been back for that boozy brunch a few times since – it’s still great!

restaurants / Spa / Whistler — No Comments
25
Nov 12

Whistler Weekend

One Mile Lake, just past Whistler

Winter takes on a different feeling when you have one of the world’s most beautiful mountain playgrounds on your doorstep. When it rains in Vancouver, you know that it’s probably snowing just 90 minutes away in Whistler, making perfect powder to play in. Whistler is less than two hours away from Vancouver and the drive there on the Sea to Sky Highway is simply breathtaking. The road twists and turns as you hug the coast and venture higher into the mountains. Each turn brings a fresh and gorgeous perspective. Take it slow though; it’s also one of Canada’s most dangerous roads. So stick to the speed limit and don’t try out any F1 moves.

I stayed at Nita Lake Lodge, a little distance from Whistler village and for me, if you’re looking to soak up the relaxing side of the mountains, the perfect place to chill. I loved my room on the top floor; huge ceiling and a gorgeous fireplace. I curled up on the sofa, reading a book and got lost watching the flames. I have to mention the staff here; the brilliant receptionist who went the extra mile for me as I’d forgotten my adaptor plug and she found a mac cable for me so I could re-charge and the friendly driver of the hotel’s shuttle bus who cheerily drove me back and forth into the village.

Nita Lake – the perfect view for breakfast

There’s a spa at Nita Lake – which unfortunately I didn’t get to try out – especially as it has those gorgeous Ila treatments which I love. No matter, I spent time in the spa’s yoga studio doing some Pilates and then padded out in the minus six chill to the outdoor hot tubs, slipped off my robe and hopped into the bubbling warmth. There is something magical about your sore muscles getting massaged by bubbles as you lie back under a blue sky and look at the snow on the mountains. I was lost in nature worship again!

Starving after all that beaming at the mountains I wanted to check out the Southside Diner at the end of the road. I’m so glad I did. During the 2010 Winter Olympics, this was the only place that didn’t hike its prices and the queue for Sunday brunch told me just how good the food was. I sat at the bar and lost a battle against the biggest and fluffiest pancake I’d ever seen. I loved watching the staff plate the food – it would not have been out of place at a Michelin-starred restaurant – but this was diner food made with love and care. I’ll be back next time I visit for sure. I want to try the cornflakes-and-Baileys…

Drinky Brunch at the Southside Diner

I’d read about a spa in town that used the 100-mile principle in its treatments. I’m a huge fan of this idea – using only ingredients from a 100-mile radius to keep the carbon footprint low and truly support local, sustainable living. Eco Chic is tucked away in the village, it’s small but spotlessly clean and had a real sanctuary-like atmosphere. The treatment rooms were compact but attractively-decorated. My therapist Michelle has won herself a place in my Top Five Massages of All-Time. I was meant to be having a full-body treatment with hot stones. The linens and oil used were locally-sourced and the stones were from the nearby Sunshine Coast. About 20 minutes into the massage, Michelle stopped and started quizzing me about my sore shoulders and horribly stiff leg. She decided that what my body needed was intense trigger point therapy instead and that’s what she gave me, focussing on my back. I stayed face-down for the whole treatment and yes, it was painful at times but oh wow, that loose muscular-release stayed with me for days. I left the spa and had to go and sit in a cafe for an hour or so before I could drive, I was so relaxed. Go and see her when you visit! An amazing intuitive therapist.

I’ll be back to Whistler soon to check out some of its famous restaurants and, SCREAM!, to try a skiing lesson. I’m nervous but I can’t wait to try it out. Any tips for first-timers… let me know.

I stayed as a guest of Tourism Whistler and was hosted by the Eco Chic spa. My views are 100% my own.

Keep Exploring Canada  and find out more about Whistler

 

restaurants / Things to do / Vancouver — No Comments
22
Nov 12

Chowder Chowdown at the Vancouver Aquarium

The only accessory any smart Vancouverite needed tonight was a wooden spoon and voting slip from the Ocean Wise sustainable seafood Chowder Chowdown event at the Aquarium.

Forget designer bags or statement shoes: this spoon is all you need…

Twelve chefs, twelve delicious chowders, all competing for the honour of being voted the People’s Choice at the end of the night. I had such a great time; I hopped on the free old-fashioned trolley bus service that was laid on for the evening and rattled through town towards the Aquarium in Stanley Park. Once there, I was given my wooden spoon and slip and so galloped inside to start tasting.

What goes with chowder? Beer, of course! From the Granville Island Brewing Co.

What crowds! This was a sold-out event. I love that people turned out on a drizzly November evening to find out more about sustainable seafood and celebrate the great food culture of Vancouver. One of the first meals I ever ate in Vancouver, two years ago, was at C restaurant which was where I first read about the Ocean Wise initiative, the brainchild of the Vancouver Aquarium, dedicated to teaching consumers about how to make smart choices when it comes to sustainable seafood.

Better move fast…

In a nutshell this is the idea: overfishing is a huge threat to our oceans. The world’s marine life is quickly being depleted. A recent scientific study predicted a world-wide fisheries collapse by 2048. The only solution is to turn back from the brink, and to begin consuming seafood in a sustainable manner.

Definitely the winners of the best presentation award!

So, when you visit Vancouver, make sure you choose Ocean Wise seafood. It’s guilt-free eating because it fits these criteria:

  1. Abundant and resilient to fishing pressures
  2. Well managed with a comprehensive management plan based on current research
  3. Harvested in a method that ensures limited bycatch on non-target and endangered species
  4. Harvested in ways that limit damage to marine or aquatic habitats and negative interactions with other species.

100% sustainable AND delicious

All the restaurants that took part tonight work within those guidelines. I’ll be doing my best to support them — and so should you. It was a tough choice; I adored the spicy tomato-y flavour of Chef Alex Tung from Cotto Enoteca Pizzeria’s chowder and the amazing citrus foam on Chef Dana Hauser’s chowder from Herons -The Fairmont Waterfront, was superb. But the winner of the People’s Choice was new opening Chef Chris Whittaker for Forage at the Listel Hotel. I will definitely be stopping by to see what else they do… as well as feast on sustainable seafood!

The winners! Forage – whizzing about so fast I couldn’t catch’ em.

Inspired? You should be! Keep Exploring Canada…

 

Cocktails / restaurants / Sin categoría / Spa / Vancouver — No Comments
21
Nov 12

Licensed to thrill at Vancouver’s Shangri-La hotel

It’s Vancouver’s tallest building and I’ve seen it shimmering at me for months…

I’ve had my eye on the Shangri-La hotel  ever since I moved to Vancouver. Towering above the other buildings in the city, it’s been a glittering landmark and one that I’ve been increasingly eager to check out. Turns out waiting two months to visit was two months too long. Where has the Chi spa been all my life? Why aren’t I there right now? If I ask nicely, do you suppose they will let me move in? 

Deliciously decadent private spa treatment room at CHI

Ahem.

Checking in was a breeze, I’d arrived early to visit Chi (OH MY GOD, THE SPA!) and the concierge had spotted me loitering in the lobby with my case. He immediately took it from me to save me the effort of wheeling it to the lift and promised to have it sent to my room. Case-less I zipped on up to the fifth floor… The lift doors open and you’re faced with a cascading wall of water over shimmering rock. A sense of calm is established immediately. I’d booked for the Element Vitality massage, a treatment which combined a variety of massage styles, Swedish, shiatsu and reflexology – blending the best of East and West – as the rest of the hotel does. I visit a lot of spas and I can say, hand on heart, that I don’t think I have ever seen treatment rooms like these before. Each room is its own fully-equipped spa, complete with huge soaker tub, steam room, fireplace, changing area, showers and relaxation area. Very impressive. I wish I could pretend that I am cooler than I am, but as I am not, I’ll confess that I WHOOPED when I saw it.

The first part of the treatment was a ten-minute steam. I love any massage that starts this way; your muscles warm up and the therapy is is much more beneficial. I steamed in my private cabin & then took a warm shower, wrapped myself in a robe and padded out to my therapist who’d prepared a herbal tea for me to enjoy while I chose which ‘element’ scented oil I preferred for my massage. I chose ‘water’ which she told me meant fluidity, travel and independence – exactly right for me. The combination of the different styles was superb, I felt positively boneless when I reluctantly left the couch an hour later. Just a great treatment. In fact, I felt so relaxed I couldn’t face dressing, so packed up my boots and all in spa gift bags, and wafted up to my room on the eleventh floor with a Mona Lisa-like smile on my face.

There! Look through the window – can you see? City, mountains and sea…

I had an impression of smooth crisp fine linens, a decadent bathroom with a gloriously waterfall-like shower and soaker tub, with a whole shelf of doo-dads and what-nots in the bathroom – combs and toothbrushes and all, but then I saw the bed and fell soundly asleep. Always the sign of a stellar massage. The need for unconsciousness immediately afterwards.

I woke to all that I moved to Vancouver for; that wonderful view of city, mountains & water. I sat on the edge of the huge bed and hugged myself with delight. I’d woken feeling refreshed and ready for action – and that meant dinner at MARKET by Jean Georges  and afterwards a party to celebrate the release of the new Bond movie, Skyfall in the Xi Shi Lounge.

And so – to MARKET, honestly? Not the most exciting of rooms, maybe it’s the lighting? Dim, but not intimate, something felt off, and truthfully, the menu didn’t have me leaping with anticipation either. Its focus is on “reinventing classic dishes by infusing eclecticism”. Hmm, a burger with black truffle and Brie, soy-glazed short ribs with apple-Jalepeno puree and a lot of mushrooms seem to feature (not great for me with my raging mushroom allergy).  I guess if I hadn’t been going to a slinky-dress party afterwards, I’d have dug in, embraced a loose waistband and had the beef tenderloin. But a slinky dress night it was, so I hit up a trio from the Raw Bar and planned to sample my date’s rack of lamb.

So, what do you think? Me? Not loving the room. The food is divine though.

How lovely when your expectations are shattered; the food was perfect. Just wonderful. The tuna tartare with avocado, spicy radish and ginger dressing was one of the best things I’ve eaten. The flavours sung. So incredibly fresh and that perfect balance between spice and heat. The rice cracker-encrusted tuna was marvelous too and the oysters so good I’m afraid I had seconds. The lamb? Heaven. Perfectly pink and given an edge with a chili-crumb crust. I may have had more than my fair share. But I’m not changing my mind about the room, until I try lunch there in daylight, and see whether that makes a difference.

On to the party – I’d heard nothing but great things about bartender Jay Jones, who shakes it up at the Xi Shi Lounge – which would be because he’s rather superb at what he does. My new off-list love is a Last Word, a cheeky Prohibition-era blend of gin, green chartreuse, maraschino and fresh pressed lime juice. Jay whipped up one of the best I’ve had and, bless him, didn’t insist I stick to the evening’s Bond-a-licious creations, although, yes – I had to try the Vesper, of course… The night span past in a whirl of Bond themes, casino fun, glammed-up willowy women and towering Canadians in sharp suits. Hurrah!

Morning arrived with a sore head and (thank goodness) an in-room breakfast, complete with old-school warming cupboard so my much-needed eggs and bacon didn’t get cold. As I write this at home, I can see the Shangri-La through the rain clouds. If I squint I can just about see where the spa might be… how I wish I were there right now.

I stayed as a guest of the Shangri La, but my views are 100% my own. And I still wish I could go and live in that spa.

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