Europe


10
Feb 13

Radisson Blu Royal, Copenhagen – a hotel with star quality

The Radisson Blu Royal in Copenhagen has got some serious celebrity credentials.

Not only has just about everyone from the Beatles to JFK to Take That stayed there but the building itself is famous in its own right.

These days it looks fairly uninspiring from the outside, but when it was opened in 1960 it was Copenhagen’s first skyscraper and it was ground breaking – with its reflective façade towering above its surroundings.

The hotel is the creation of Arne Jacobsen, who in architectural terms is about as celebrity as it gets.

But far from simply designing the outer shell, he also designed just about everything inside the hotel, right down to the wine glasses and the cutlery.

Although most of the bedrooms have now been modernised, they still pay homage to his design principles, and most of the public areas are still as he envisaged.

The Arne Jacobsen Suite

The Arne Jacobsen Suite

One bedroom however has been left intact and is a shrine to 70s style – with all the original furniture, fixtures and fittings still place. You can stay there if you want – although you could probably get a similar experience at a fraction of the cost by going to stay with your granny, or hotel guests are able to take a look if it’s not being used.

It’s a popular location for film and photo shoots though so you’ve almost certainly seen it at some point before on the pages of a glossy magazine, in the background behind some insanely glamorous model.

On the top floor of the hotel is the recently opened Alberto K restaurant. Not only does it boast fantastic views over the neighbouring Tivoli Gardens and the rest of the city.

It’s chasing a Michelin star, and is hotly tipped to win one in the next round, so is booked up well in advance. Sadly, my trip was too impromptu to bag a table, and like most of Copenhagen’s top eateries a meal there comes with a hefty price tag.

Alberto K restaurant is aiming for a Michelin star

Alberto K restaurant is aiming for a Michelin star

If you haven’t got cash to burn though you can still get a taste of the hotel’s style in the Royal Bar in the lobby where you can sit on Jacobsen designed furniture and drink from Jacobsen designed glasses without breaking the bank.

There’s even a cocktail named after the architect. There’s nothing to suggest that he ever drank it himself, but its green colour is reminiscent of the décor in the preserved bedroom. The glace cherry at the bottom of the glass is a lovely retro touch too.

Arne Jacobsen cocktail

Arne Jacobsen cocktail

Hit is on the right day and you might even spot a celeb or two in the lobby. If not, you can always just look at the photographs.


10
Feb 13

Meet Benoit Sinthon – Madeira’s only Michelin star chef

Benoit Sinthon may be Madeira’s only Michelin-starred chef, but he hasn’t let success go to his head.

Chef Benoit Sinthon is the only chef in Madeira to hold a Michelin star

Chef Benoit Sinthon is the only chef in Madeira to hold a Michelin star

 

Far from being an arrogant Gordon Ramsay-esque character with a bulging ego and abrasive manner, Chef Sinthon is modest and mild mannered, the epitome of charm and with a twinkle in his eye that hints at a wicked sense of humour.  It is difficult to imagine him losing his temper and I got the sense that there would be more laughter than tongue-lashings in his kitchen. But despite this there is no doubting that he is serious about food, and as he talks about the subject his eyes light up even more and his enthusiasm is almost tangible.

 

 

Chef Sinthon’s love affair with food began humble beginnings. It was the markets in Marseille which he used to visit with his Italian grandmother that really ignited his passion. He said: “My grandmother always used to go to market on Saturday morning because she loved cooking. We used to go to the port, and I always remember the fish arriving and my grandmother explaining to us how she chose the best fish.”

His restaurant, Il Gallo d’Oro at the Cliff Bay Hotel on the outskirts of Funchal, may have held a star since 2009, but Chef Sinthon is determined not to take his success for granted because to hold the coveted star is a long term ambition, and he has no intention of letting it go easily.  He said: “It was fantastic when we first got the star because it was something I was always striving for. I was so happy. But I said to everyone in the kitchen ‘We have worked very hard for this and now we have been rewarded and we should celebrate, but we must be careful because we have a big challenge ahead, and a responsibility, because of course we want to keep it now.’ We have reinforced the team to make it even stronger. One of my friends who is a fantastic pastry chef was working in Dubai and I persuaded him to join us, and we have a new sommelier. Every year we try to think about what we can do to get even better, we are always trying to improve. But the Michelin star is not the most important thing – the most important things are that the restaurant is full and that we are cooking at a high level and serving wonderful food.”

In order to ensure that the food at Il Gallo d’Oro is the highest possible quality locally sourced food is used whenever possible.  Chef Sinthon

Il Gallo d'Oro in the Cliff Bay in Madeira

Il Gallo d’Oro in the Cliff Bay in Madeira

said: “We try to use local ingredients. About 90 per cent of the fruit and vegetables are local and around 60 per cent of the fish is from here. We are very lucky because Madeira has a good climate where everything can grow. There are a lot of smaller producers, and we can visit them and talk to them about what we want and this is really important to us as chefs. We even work with one woman who grows our herbs and edible flowers.” And this ethos leads to a regularly changing menu of tastebud tantalising dishes such as lobster and tomato symphony, local scabbard fish stuffed with seaweed with caviar and shellfish sauce and a chocolate cube with caramel and poached pear.

It was during his early training that Chef Sinthon first began to dream of making it on to the Michelin roll of honour. He said: “I was training in a fantastic place when a new chef arrived from a three-starred restaurant in Paris. I looked at him and though ‘He is only eight years older than me’ and in that moment I decided that I needed to try to be like that one day, and have a Michelin star of my own. “  And he never lost sight of his goal, training and working at many of France’s top restaurants in order to gain the valuable experience needed to realise his dream.

But it was love for a woman rather than food which brought the French chef to Madeira.  He was working at the restaurant at the luxurious Chateau de Rochegude hotel in Provence in the early 1990s when he met Lara, who was working at the hotel as a receptionist. Their love blossomed but then Lara, who had Madeiran family, announced that she needed to return to the island. Determined not to lose the love of his life he sent his CV to hotels and restaurants in the hope of being able to follow Lara to Madeira. Fate was on his side and he was taken on as a Junior Sous Chef at one of Madeira’s most long-established hotels – Reid’s Palace. He stayed there for two years but then ambition drew him, and Lara, back to France where he began working at the prestigious three-starred La Cote Saint Jacques in Burgundy with renowned chef Jean Michel Lorain. But just a couple of years later, in 1998, the couple returned to Madeira. In 2004 Chef Sinthon was appointed as Executive Chef at the Cliff Bay. He said: “I knew the chef was leaving and I felt I was ready to take the challenge.”

One of Chef Benoit Sinthon's creations

One of Chef Benoit Sinthon’s creations

 

There are three other restaurants at the hotel, in addition to Il Gallo d’Oro, and Chef Sinthon is in charge of them all. He said: “It is a nice hotel and as well as the gourmet restaurant there is a café, barbecue and bistro so it is not just one thing. It is a really interesting job to have.”

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